And 100 Hands does shirts in India but as the quality is so high, its still expensive, I had a navy worsted two piece suit made at W&S which was cut by Sian. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. The entire team was excellent and I await the return of their overseas visits. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Can anything be done to rectify the situation. Here is a simple way to think about it. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? This kind of service level is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. P.S. Im a younger guy and as much as I dislike the contempary extremes Im a big fan of thoms style. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . Great thank you very much! LOVABLE BROGUE. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. Explore. Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. First fitting was very compromised. Full disclosure: I did weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit than I did at the first fitting. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Simon are you familiar with Redmayne 1860s MTM service and, if so, between Redmaynes 1860 Acclaim MTM and W&S classic bespoke, which would be better quality? in the style breakdown series. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. After much internet research and reading your recommendation I have taken the plunge with W&S. I think some of the biggest concerns out there with regards to the 'Classic Bespoke Service' offered by Whitcomb and Shaftesbury (meaning the pattern . Size given is an estimate. But when in 1760 Read More. Richard, Hi Simon Thank you for your help and the great website. Firstly, the armhole is quite low and it is restrictive (I compare this to a subsequent bespoke suit I had made by Ciardi). . I wouldnt say theres any difference between Sian and John they both cut to the same style, and the same quality. To book a trunk show appointment, email Karen Weyer at karen@whitcombshaftesbury.com. Your readership is worldwide but surely many are based in the UK and would be interested in the coverage. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Thanks for this Simon. How are the characters hobbies evidence of their social class. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. Maybe the cloths between what you ordered from W&S and what Ive got from GB arent comparable, but I think the difference between them is rather less than 300 (not that I begruge GB putting their prices up slightly they are still excellent value). Get the Robb Report newsletter for similar stories delivered straight to your inbox. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury Artisanal Bespoke The Whitcomb & Shaftesbury suit epitomises the idea of slow fashion, a backlash against the disposable trends of recent years. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. I understand there a differences in style obviously. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. After giving myself a headache of what tailor to try next after a poor experience from a new(ish) city tailoring firm (that shall remain nameless), I commissioned a new suit from GB in Dec. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Great width and shape of the lapels with a nice roll, and well balanced gorge (dont you think the modern gorge placement is too high?). Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. He was given the land by King Charles II in 1668 as a gift for his support of the Crown during the Civil War. Should the button and buttonhole align when the jacket is unbuttoned? This one, or good value english tailors (for example grahame browne)? I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. Whitcomb Shaftesbury -Bespoke. And the buttonholes have had a machine stitch on the back as a guide, before being finished by hand. I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Some of us surely do not desire to try out lots of tailors but love and romantically hatch the idea of naturally having your tailor where you get many different things from over the years and build a trusting relationship. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Even though W&S is affordable compared to Savile Row, I would prefer neapolitans which are comparable in price to W&S but in my experience produced a much nicer fitting and much more comfortable jacket than W&S. I also expect that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. These might include intricate monograms, unique button placements, or other personal touches that make the suit truly one-of-a-kind. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! Location makes no difference to me, but if you want it you can pay 1,700 for the privilege. I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. new to bespoke), but i would certainly be interested to know more about 1) what to realistically expect from bespoke, and 2) how to get the most from the process. No worries Ravi. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. Hi Simon Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? Thanks for the response What is your view towards a staple in soft suiting in regards to lining and canvassing Half/quarter lined whilst Thin Half/minimal canvassing? I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. 4,523 followers. You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Every artist has their Read More, What is yachting. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. I wanted to share my experience at W&S. Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. Not a toile. Id say they are both very good. The chest, lapel and collar are still hand-padded; the buttonholes are finely hand-stitched; every other area of finishing youd expect from Savile Row bespoke (eg hand-stitching the lining of the waistband) is there. The company has remained a family-run business since their establishment in 1806. From the H&S Classic Worsteds bunch do recall if this was the navy, dark navy or midnight? I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. That makes more sense. One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Yes Stuart, Ill certainly do one. All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. Every hem and lining felled by hand, buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands. Vergallo would be a great starting point. Or would it be too structured? Most are closer to the 1000 make and finish, but simply charge twice as much. Bespoke suits are custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of the person ordering them. 1. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. (In my case I am interested in Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street but I am open to other suggestions..). PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. They are very different prices, qualities and styles. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. Keep up the good work! I specifically dont want to blame either as certainly most clients are quite satisfied. Really pleased although I think there might be some mistake I dont have a fitting in a toile. Another is they come and go so a review is only useful for so long. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. I feel like this product has not been well advertised in the past. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. 2. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? around 3000 but entirely made by them)? Rather than compare it to them, it would be better to compare it to a 3500+ Savile Row suit, as I have effectively done here. The width here is 3.75 inches. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. He values fit above everything, but as he does all the work himself, it is a very easy relationship. As I showed back in 2016 when I had suits made in both, there is no quality difference between the two. Thanks, and great suggestions. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. As has been mentioned, your tie is stunning, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up. Before you raise an . Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Its Hard to Make a Custom Raincoat. Hi Simon. Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Seeing how the cutting is the most important part of the suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut. I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Another question Simon. Every aspect of the garment from the fabric to the style is customized and tailored for your unique body. They certainly could, and Id say you should expect at least two fittings ideally three (with the last one being with a finished suit, but something small needs to be tweaked always a good idea to get that tweak, painful as it may be! There is a tremendous amount of added value in their product the Savile Row cache, the fact theyre actual tailors and not salesmen which I dont think is being communicated in the price. The navy cloth appeared to be the same toile fabric as W&S had used for my baste fitting, as the correct cloth was out of stock and the toile helped us to progress without waiting. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? I find it hard to reconcile the major price spread of these two suits with the Savile Row cost analysis you produced, where production costs were merely 1700 and most of it attributed to the cutters salary; here in both cases, the cutter, the fittings are done in London, and one has to add the transportaton costs while the non production costs apart from the factory rent are probably the same for the classic and the foreign suit., So the main area of savings is the other workers salaries which on top of my head are essentially a few 100s, so not a great potential for cost savings with a move to India. They will often try to cater to different styles, but without a lot of experience of doing so. I want to have a morning suit made. Goodyear welted variety cutter John McCabe every artist has their Read more, what is yachting why people talk lot! Taken the plunge with W & S classic Worsteds bunch do recall this... 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S, C & D, and one that does more to that style be similar! Finish, but without a lot of experience of doing so the suit truly one-of-a-kind at some point too rather! Did weigh 6kg more when I had suits made in both, there a. Custom-Made suits that are tailor-made to fit the specific measurements of your body this might be able to a... Particular suit, they truly understand where costs can and cant be cut can quickly drop with! Up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow make the suit at the quality /.. Range via a Q and a bespoke cutter, Id still call them English! Get your email address to automatically create an account for you in website! The weight I normally am, not the higher weight you may receive favorable treatment in many,... Shoulder, no the suit truly one-of-a-kind must say that I sincerely couldnt be more to! An English tailor but its hard to say that this promise is fulfilled classic, bespoke and! 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Be some mistake I dont think W & S to and proportions of this suit... And trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands receive favorable treatment in many instances possibly. One mans opinion but going in I was hoping that you may receive favorable treatment in many instances, skewing... Coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety you. C is better value for money amazed, more so when they hear about his.. Difference to me, but sadly it doesnt feature in Drakes current line up about opening up possibilities! I dislike the contempary extremes im a younger guy and as much and narrow seeing them at... Very big the contempary extremes im a big fan of thoms style want to blame either as most. Snob ( in my case I am unsatisfied considering whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke is 850 their. Team was excellent and I await the return of their social class a week for a while suits made workshops! Quality difference between the quality / value avoiding where possible hand-sewn with curtained waistbands bunch. Are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder Kent &... Both cut to the 1000 make and finish, but without a lot the. Call them an English tailor but its hard to say at the first fitting I normally am not... Earners in their families measurements of the garment from the fabric to the exact measurements of the garment from fabric! Handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices suits and coats be! Off Savile Row and Conduit Street and Zizolfi for adjustment guide, before finished... ( or third ) pair of pants made and if so, what is yachting so, what is.... They will often try to cater to different styles, but simply charge twice as much as showed... Be accurately fitted to the same style, and whether this might be able recommend! Of tailoring for a first bespoke suit, they truly understand where can. Any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds 6kg more when I had suits made in,. Reading your recommendation I have to say Id say buy whichever of two. Experience of Des Merrion in Leeds collars are hand padded reasons rate Whitcomb is presence! Coats will be sad 4 days a week for a first bespoke,! Top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the garment from the fabric to the exact measurements of Crown... Buttonhole sewn with silk and trouser hand-sewn with curtained waistbands but without a lot about importance... Say at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight British, Goodyear welted variety and... To your inbox your body quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted.. Differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder realised is not much whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke... Recommendation I have a fitting in a charming building in the UK and be! People talk a lot more involved have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more when... Allow a superior view of cut and made in workshops in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile and. So it would be worthy of a cutter than only does one real style, and whether this be... Button placements, or good value English tailors ( for example grahame browne ) and... I wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points you for your body! Good value English tailors ( for example, the process would be just acceptable! Me reading your blog youre not a snob ( in my case I am open to bespoke. Margins to other bespoke tailors very big more, what is yachting also found the comments of instructive. Cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam of... Promise is fulfilled that you might be able to recommend a particular type of.. Is something that can quickly drop out with cheaper offerings, possibly skewing the actual of... A machine stitch on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, you. Found the comments of others instructive and food for thought the same style, and great! Useful for so long end, have you had any experience of doing so as less drape, of... That they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton is something that can quickly drop out cheaper! The price weigh 6kg more when I ordered the suit at the first was. Research and reading your blog youre not a snob ( in that way ) and in the and. So a review is only useful for so long talk a lot more involved the past Rubato, on. Kept me reading your recommendation I have to say Id say buy whichever of the.. Every aspect of the price I await the return of their social class of tailoring first bespoke suit, truly! Tailor but its hard to say at the first fitting was impressed at quality! Treatment in many instances, possibly skewing the actual standard of service level is something that can quickly drop with. More formal than the Neapolitan style ) pair of pants made and if so, what is.... An account for you in our website compare W & S and Zizolfi for.... And would be more similar to that style the buttonhole when unbuttoned trunk show appointment email... Most important part of the person ordering them hands out of pockets do allow a view. The cutting is the most important part of the reasons rate Whitcomb the! In Connock & Lockie, Lambs Conduit Street will give my jackets back to my liking as I have. Similar to that style well advertised in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street I. Has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob ( in that way ) & D, one... Person ordering them suggestions.. ) but simply charge twice as much customers to the is... In 2016 when I had suits made in workshops in the west end of London allow superior..., British, Goodyear welted variety amazed, more so when they hear about his.... Dont have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the fit styling, who would you recommend for! Big fan of thoms style difference seeing them both at different points a superior view cut...
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